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Untitled drawing from
Mr. Beckwith's sketchbook

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About Our Tea

THE PLANT

Camellia sinensis is an evergreen shrub, which, if left to grow wild, can reach heights of more than thirty feet. On farms, tea bushes are generally kept trimmed to a comfortable picking height of two to four feet. The bark is rough and slightly gray. The leaves are serrated, dark green and elliptical, formed on short stalks. Young leaves have a light hair that is prized in certain high quality teas. Small white flowers are sparse. Seeds are contained within a smooth, round, three-celled hull, like a small nut. (See also: Theales definition, Encyclopedia Brittanica).

Tea originates in China, probably near the Yunnan/Vietnam border. Cultivation of the plant spread through China and into Taiwan and Japan. In the 1800’s, Englishman Robert Fortune explored China disguised as a Chinese merchant. During his journey, Fortune learned the secrets of growing and processing tea. The British soon exported tea seeds and tea-growing technology to India. There, they discovered Camillia sinensis assamicas, a second varietal of the tea plant. The assamica plant has bigger leaves and grows better in lower elevations. The Chinese varietal is better suited to its higher elevations and a tougher climate. Today, many tea plants are a hybrid of different genetic varietals. The many types of tea, among them Green, Oolong, Black, White and Pu-erh, are distinguished by the techniques by which they are processed as well as the varietals of the tea plant which is used. Tea is now grown in significant commercial quantities on every continent except Europe and North America.

 
 

SMALL FARMS

We like small farm teas, not only because we want to support the small farmer, but because their teas often taste better. Large estate teas are blends of machine processed teas with a wide range of quality. Tea is only as good as its weakest component. When modern technology is introduced, it generally serves only to increase efficiency at the expense of quality. Small farm teas are hand-grown and crafted with great care and pride. Farmers prepare diligently for annual tea competitions. They put their hearts and centuries of tradition into their teas. Techniques developed by their ancestors are still in use today.

In certain areas of the world, economic pressures are intense for small tea farmers. Many are lured by dreams of riches to the cities. The collectives who pay the farmers are usually more concerned with low prices than high quality. Recently, in some areas of China, farmers have simply left their tea to wilt on the bush. They cannot afford the effort and expense of processing, only to sell for low prices. When you purchase tea from us, you are helping to support threatened farming traditions. On a recent trip to China I found that most tea farmers are foregoing their regional specialities to make copies of famous teas, such as Long jing. The name finds a market whereas the traditional, local styles of tea are simply disappearing.

Organic farming is most successful on a small scale. Small farmers are more likely to be using organic and chemical-free techniques to grow and process their teas. Pesticides, fertilizers or mechanical cutting are expensive. Individual farmers have the incentive to use things already on their farms and thus practice age-old sustainable growing techniques. The alternative to small farmers is chemically grown, mechanically harvested and processed, uniform teas of low quality. They hold no interest for the connoisseur. There's little adventure in a cup of bagged tea, blended for consistency. Cultural history and geography are lost; all mystery evaporates with them.

Help us support these agricultural artisans and allow them to continue their wonderful craft. When you buy artisan teas, you provide its makers with good prices for their products, allowing them to stay on the farm and keep their traditions alive.

 

 

VIDEO 
See how tea is made on a small farm. 


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